What was your first taco experience?
When I was an apprentice at the Shangri-La Hotel in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, there was a Mexican food celebration where they brought some chefs in from Mexico City. I fell in love with the food—and the chlies. A year later, I was working in Bermuda and they served some ground beef with crispy corn tortillas. I later learned that they called that tacos. Let’s just say it was not the same.
Tell me about your most vivid taco memory.
Remnants for our “Pig Out Tuesday.” We split the pig head and scraped the brains out, spread them on the tortillas, piled a nice heap of meat from the neck and cheese, chopped tongue, cracklings and topped it with a salsa made of onions, cilantro, roasted serrano chilies, lime juice. There was only enough for the few of us in the kitchen, but it was so rich that one was plenty.
Favorite taqueria round these parts?
Don Pisto’s in North Beach is owned by Pete Mrabe, one of my former managers. My regular orders tend to be al pastor—which is grilled pork chop—chopped up and served with charred pineapple, ceviche and the hamburguesa (which is ground beef chuck with roasted onions and bacon). I’m also a sucker for Pete’s mussels with chorizo. La Taqueria is also a good standby. And I love T-Lish and Mamacita but they’re hard to get into and no, I’m not blowing smoke up your ass.
This Thursday at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market! Guest taco chef: Mark Denham of the forthcoming Bishop restaurant.