Craig Stoll was at the Thursday market last week and the line (almost) beat out Roli Roti. Except that the people in the Tacolicious line were waiting for cow’s head tacos—not some prissy (if awesome) porchetta sandwich. But still, that’s saying something.
First taco memory?
I’d never heard of tacos in where I grew up in the suburbs of New York. Then they came out with this taco kit in the early 70s. It had the crispy shells …
Favorite SF taqueria?
Where my family lives in the Mission District, I’ve got a taco truck on either end of my block. One is El Tonayense and the other one I can’t recall. I get lengua or pastor. I love La Taqueria too.
You made lamb tacos too today but what inspired the tacos de cabeza (cow’s head)?
I was with friends and we were in Oaxaca and went went to a mescal distillery. And then we went to another one. [Dramatic pause and smile.] We may or may not have then gone to a carnival outside a church. It was a Fear and Loathing type moment. Is this real? There was a giant pot [at a stand], with a spoon on the edge and I poked at it and a cow’s head rolled over and bobbed to the surface. So we had some cow’s head tacos.
This Thursday, come try the tacos of guest chef, Betelut’s Alex Ong who’s planning on serving a taco filled with pork leg braised in duck fat (pond and turf?) topped with fish sauce steeped with chilies. Kogi BBQ, you got nuttin’ on us.