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Exit Interview: Perbacco chef Staffan Terje

a bald man posing

A Swedish chef in San Francisco running an Italian restaurant comes to cook Cal-Mexican for Tacolicious’s farmers market stand. Hooray for America.

Perbacco's chef is a regular the market.

First taco memory?
Being from Sweden, unfortunately it was at Taco Bell. Also, although it’s not a true taco, in Sweden, we make something similar called a “klamma.” It’s a flat bread from the northern part of Sweden, almost identical to a flour tortilla. It’s filled with surstromming, the infamous fermented herring—very stinky, it’s an aquired taste—diced onion, new potatoes, sour cream, chives and dill. Add some cold beer and a couple shots of aquavit and you’re good to go.

Most memorable taco?
The first time I had taco de lengua I was living in Santa Barbara. My friends and I decided to find the best taco truck in the area. I think we went to 15 in a day. One in Oxnard had a vast menu of unusual cuts and the tongue was outstanding. Since the, I always judge a taco truck or a taqueria by their tongue tacos. There’s a fine line between rubbery and overcooked. And the salsa verde can’t be wimpy. Brain tacos with egg aren’t bad either.

What inspired your sardine taco?
I wanted to do a fish taco because it’s very California, but with a fish that represents this area. I love sardines. I’m a big advocate for fish from the dark side, as I call them. Full flavor and good for you. Sardines, mackerel, albacore tuna, blue fish, etc. I get tired of people giving me the sustainable mantra, and turning their nose up at these fish and say “It’s fishy.” So it’s a little bit of my own political agenda.

What taquerias do you frequent here?
If I have time, it’s the El Tonayense taco truck parked by Best Buy. I get the lengua, al pastor and the carne asada.